The 2004 Barbaresco Starderi is a knock-out effort. A dark, brrooding wine it reveals an aary of dark cherries, spices, tar and smoke in a powerful, sinewy style. With each passing moment, it seemingly turns more and more classic in the glass, with only the super-ripe fruit serving as a reminder that this is a more contemporary wine. The balance and use of oak are both masterful. It is easly the finest wine Giorgio Rivetti has ever made, and is also the first wine in the estate's history that can truly challange for a spot in the top echelon of the zone. Anticipate maturity: 2009-2019. this is very strong set of releases from La Spinetta and propietor Giorgio Rivetti. The 2004 Barbarescos are easily the best of his career. The wines still see 100% new Frech oak, toast levels have been reduced and the Barbarescos now spend 12 months in oak rather than the 18 months they saw in previous vintages. Both changes have had a rmarkably positive effect in allowing more site-specific character and Nebbiolo fruit to come through. The 2003 Barolo Campe shows that Rivetti is making important strides with this wine as well. Only the 2005 Barberas are disappointing, but that is not entirely surprising given the uneven growing season. In the past La Spinetta was an estate that relied just as much on style a substance. The 2004 Barbarescos, and specially the Starderi, are the first wines that truly live up to the glamorous image that Giorgio Rivetti has masterfully succeeded in creating.