Interestingly, the 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Starderi, from magnum is a bit more forward than the Gallina, which I would not have expected based on how the wines showed when they were young. Sweet tobacco, white truffles and worn-in leather all waft from the glass. The Starderi has plenty of depth in its fruit and relatively soft tannins for such a big wine, but the aromatics are a bit more evolved, all of which suggests the wine is best enjoyed over the next handful of years. Hints of crushed flowers and rose petals linger on the close.