The estate's 2005 Pin (65% Nebbiolo, 35% Barbera) is a lovely, engaging effort with floral aromatics, a soft, expansive core of fruit and well-integrated oak. As is characteristic of the vintage, this is a smaller-scaled wine, but it is also beautifully proportioned in that context. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. This is a very strong set of releases from La Spinetta and proprietor Giorgio Rivetti. The 2004 Barbaresos are easily the best of his career. The wines still see 100 French oak, but toast levels have been reduced and Barbarescos now spend 12 months in oak rather than the 18 months they saw in previouly vintages. Both changes have had a remarkable positive effect in allowing more site-specific character and Nebbiolo fruit to come through. The 2003 Barolo Campe shows that Rivetti is making important strides with this wine as well. Only the 2005 Barberas are disappointing, but that is not surprising given the uneven growing season. In the past La Spinetta was an estate that relied just as much on style as substance. The 2004 Barbarescos, and especially the Starderi, are the first wines that truly live up to the glamorous image that Giorgio Rivetti has masterfully succeeded in creating.