The 2005 Barbaresco Gallina has developed lovely tertiary notes since I last tasted it a few years back. Leather, smoke, tobacco, licorice and game meld into a core of intense dark fruit. As it so often does, the Gallina has a way of putting on considerable weight in bottle. The 2005 is now close to fully mature, and, while there is no upside in holding bottles further, the wine has enough depth to hold on for at least another handful of years.