This carefully evolved Barbaresco shows a finer texture and fiber than you might have expected given its relatively robust construction. You get loads of cola and balsamic herb from the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Starderi (Magnum) and, of course, not as much primary fruit. This charner of a wine confidently exudes tertiary note of licorice, tar and smoky aromas with every pour. It's a mentholicious and balsamic Barbaresco that I wouldn't be afraid to serve now, at least not for a group of friends who absolutely deserve it. Only 600 magnums exist.