La Spinetta's 2014 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano is a dark, brooding wine. Because of its depth and overall structure, the oak element is less evident here than it is in some of the other wines. Smoke, licorice, tar, spice, black cherry and rose petal gradually emerge from a wall of firm, imposing tannins. Readers will have to be patient with the 2014, but it is a striking wine in the making. As is often the case, the Valeirano has a distinctive element of austerity and nerve.