Bright straw yellow. Fresh pear and ripe apple on the nose. Lively, pure and juicy on entry, with rich flavors of kumquat, quince and fresh herbs, then more dilute in the middle and slightly muted at the back. Fruit-driven and increasingly glyceral on the medium-long finish, this Pinot Grigio boasts uncommon size given the wateriness of many such wines from Italy, but it lacks the focus and energy of Ronco dei Tassi’s best wines.